USA : Meant to be urban, turned out survival... Could also be named "Quick and effective survival guide in an urban jungle"

USA


First of all, let's start with the beginning : how and where it all began... Take a close look at this picture : this is the starting point of the whole story.
The place is called "Mickey's Dining Car", and is located in St Paul, one of the two twin cities, in Minnesota, the other one being Minneapolis. Mickey's Dining Car, a haunt of thievesIf you happen to be in this town, don't get attracted by this old-fashioned style "restaurant". If you fancy it, take first of all a picture of it and then go away as quickly as your legs can carry you. I did make the mistake to get in for a lunch, but this blunder turned out to me not only extremely expensive but caused me also a whole lot of problems which I would have gladly avoided.

To put it straight, all my money was stolen in this place. By one of the employees. In fact, they were two accomplices (out of three employees, not a bad average !). I of course reported the case to the police as soon as I realised what had happened and then went back to the place and asked to talk to the manager. She seemed on the phone to be willing to help, but in fact, it did not return any result. It would however not have been that complicated to review the video tapes as she had promised to do...
The police enquiry did not turn out more successfull. I admit that the policeman who had been sent to me had forewarned me that I should not expect too much return. But he at least made some effort : after having heard my version of the story, he went indeed to the spot and got in touch with the manager too. What results might have come out of it afterwards, I have no clue, since I did not receive any update, and on top of that my plan was organised in such a way that I had to leave the region that very night to head towards Chicago. I easily guess that this whole mess has since then been filed, buried and forgotten.

It happened as early in my stay as the third day; fortunately, I had a very little big of cash in my pocket, but I could not expect much help from my credit card, which was almost out of the money, since I had used it to book my flights, hotels and coach rides. This misfortune ruined my holidays, and I had to make up my mind to spend them "in a different way" (understood "than planned", "than usually"), but at least, I had not to worry for where I would sleep. However I still had to eat and spend, one way or another, these remaining days that seemed to me at this precise moment to be bound to last for ever each.

I decided to write this review when I returned. Not only to warn those who will have taken some time to read it (so far, the message would be : take care where your steps might take you !!!) but also to try and describe what I did, and maybe give some tips to those who, like me, would have to spend some time in a big city when being almost broke. And it might even be possible to enjoy it !
The basic hypothesis behind this story is that you don't want to spend a whole week just hanging around in the streets, waiting for the time to go to sleep...

Of course, the major part of the remaining money is to be dedicated to the food... I then remembered a book(1) I had read shortly before in which a Balinese wise man explains his new pupil that human nature is so that it is very difficult to answer simply "no" to a claim. The person you are in touch with will try and find an alternative solution in order to give at least a partial answer to your request. It was therefore the very chance for me to personnally test this theory, in the steps of the "hero". I would have never imagined that one day I would be in a café almost begging the manager to offer me a breakfast at a reduced price (I did even not dare ask it for free). My own results were slightly more mitigated than in the book, humiliating feelings included, but it was worth a try, at least from a purely human point of view.

My very first piece of advice will therefore be : "Invest in a public transportation pass !". I might have written "buy", but this is really an investment that is worth what you will pay for it, the price being usually reasonable ! Distances in big cities, even if they usually seem shorter than in the middle of nowhere, are in reality much longer than how they appear on the map. So, if you really want to see a little more of it than simply the neighbourhoods of your hotel, go for it, it will turn out cheaper than the pay per use option.
Chicago from the Hancock Observatory
The following, as concrete as can be recommendations are based on my personal experience in Chicago this summer (2010), and to a smaller extent in Detroit, but many of these tips can also be put into practice in any other city, except for the ones very specific to each spot... So, get along on board and let's have some fun...

- Take the lightrail brown line (fare included in the above mentioned pass) and enjoy a view of the Loop, a belt (of course) surrounding one of the neuralgic centres of the city. Chicago's "sub"way is in fact an aerial train and constitutes a good and cheap (although limited) alternative to hop on hop off touristic buses. The journey through the Loop takes between 10 and 15 minutes.
Note that the city of Detroit offers also such a mean of transportation.

- Pay a visit to the tourist information desk or visitor centre. These people are paid to know their city and to be able (and they really are) to give you the best piece of advice for what you are looking for. You will also find there a whole lot of ads with lots of opportunities and coupons (to use with care though) with discounts for restaurants, museums, various leisure activities... Chicago has also a very friendly greeter solution, where local people take you for a free one hour walk downtown, talking about their city and tailoring the tour based on your own preferences and interests.

- Do not forget to enquire about the museums' free opening day or schedule : with a little bit of organisation, you will be able to set up a good rotation scheme between themes and areas in the city (Mexican art : always free; Art Institue of Chicago : every Thursday from 5pm onwards; Chicago History Museum : on Mondays; ...). These are a couple of cheap hours stolen from gloominess.

- Enjoy a cheap and exotic meal in Chinatown. The food there is really good and you will for sure have enough in your plate ! Unbeatable quality report vs price. This piece of advice is valid in any city hosting a Chinese "town" : it was tested with the same gusto in Montreal too.
And in case of utmost emergency, should you be really thirsty and without a penny in your pocket, head towards the closest casino. Not to gamble but rather to please your thirst at the sodas' fountain. These enterprises, which are most of the time open 24 hours a day, are compelled to offer their clients non alcoholic (it is though better than nothing !) drinks. Of course, do not explain to the guys at the entry that you are so thirsty, but tell them rather that you want to have some fun : this way, your chances to get in this temple will sensitively increase..

- Spend some time in one of the many parks the city offers. There is always something going on, like for instance concerts, farmers' markets, exhibitions, dance lessons or even a regional baseball game (usually on Sunday mornings). After a few minutes you will understand the basic rules and be able to adequately support your favourite team. Lincoln Park features a free zoo, as well as a very nice point of view on the city's skyscrapers.

- Go to the beach. Chicago stands on the shore of Lake Michigan and has more than twenty beaches for you. You might also want to walk around in the marina in Lincoln Park. Nice views and nice cars too...

- Last but not least thing I would like to suggest here, one of the most breathtaking spectacles I attended in Chicago was simply to enjoy the view on the city and its skyscrapers' landscape from the planetarium's area in the early evening and to wait for the sun to set.Vue depuis le planetarium It is really a wonderful, 100% natural, free, ecological, unforgettable (pick whatever you like) sight.

There is always something to to downtown. One can of course prefer the countryside, but it is guaranteed that a city of a certain importance is not without charms. All tastes can be satisfied, and you will for sure make surprising, interesting, maybe even dangerous encounters. To fully enjoy it, keep not only your eyes wide open, but also all your senses awaken. And be careful where your steps might lead you. All that shines is not gold !


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(1)Laurent Gounelle, "L'homme qui voulait être heureux", Editions Anne Carrière, Paris, 2008.
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